Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its profound food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
